Kathmandu Durbar Square

Kathmandu Durbar Square was the seat of the Malla and later Shah kings. Around the Hanuman Dhoka palace stand multi-roofed temples such as Taleju, Maju Dega and Jagannath, the stone Kal Bhairav, and the carved Kumari Ghar where the living goddess Kumari lives and sometimes appears at her window.

Several buildings were badly damaged in the 2015 earthquake and have since been rebuilt. The square comes alive during Indra Jatra in September, when the Kumari is pulled through the city on a chariot. A heritage fee is charged for foreigners.

What to see and do

Explore the Hanuman Dhoka palace museum and its courtyards, including Nasal Chowk where coronations took place, and the nine-storey Basantapur tower. In the square, see the Kumari Ghar's carved courtyard, the huge Kal Bhairav image, the tall Taleju temple (open to Hindus once a year), and the Kasthamandap, the wooden pavilion that may have given Kathmandu its name, rebuilt after 2015.

Around the square, the old market streets of Indra Chowk, Asan and Makhan Tole are full of small shrines and traditional shops.

Good to know

Foreigners pay an entry fee, valid for multiple days if you register. Early morning is quietest and best for photography. The Kumari appears at her window at set times; photographing her is not allowed. Festivals such as Indra Jatra, Gai Jatra and Dashain bring processions and masked dances.